Workshop Flooring

A rubber roll of 3mm to 5mm suits most garage workshops, because it takes car tyres, is easy to sweep and covers the floor in long strips. Add interlocking tiles or a thicker mat at the bench, where you stand for longest. Coin and checker patterns give extra grip on a dusty floor.

Tiles are usually better beside a workbench, because they are thicker and softer to stand on and absorb dropped tools. A damaged tile can be swapped without replacing the whole floor. Keep the thinner, firmer roll for open floor that cars and trolleys cross, where fewer joins matter more.

Axle stands and jack feet put a lot of weight on a small area, which can dent or cut rubber over time. Place a piece of plywood or a steel plate under each stand and jack to spread the load. Rolling a trolley jack across a firm 3mm to 5mm roll is fine.

Occasional drips wipe off rubber flooring without trouble if they are cleaned up promptly. Constant soaking in oil or solvents can soften and swell some rubber compounds, so a drip tray under a leaking vehicle is worth using. For daily oil contact, choose a listing that states oil resistance.

The workshop bench protector rubber mat is made for bench tops, and comes in lengths of 1m, 2m and 3m. It stops small parts rolling off, cushions delicate work and protects the bench from scratches and spills. It also suits sheds, garages and greenhouse benches.

Yes, firm rubber rolls of 3mm to 5mm take car tyres well. Avoid turning the steering wheel while the car is stationary on the rubber, as this scuffs the surface. Hot tyres after a long drive can leave light marks on rubber, which usually clean off.

Yes, rubber feels noticeably warmer underfoot than bare concrete, because it stops the cold of the slab drawing heat from your feet. Thicker mats and tiles at the bench make the biggest difference. Rubber also takes the hardness out of the floor during long jobs.

Yes, hot sparks and grinding swarf can mark, pit or burn rubber flooring. Keep welding and grinding to an area of bare concrete, or cover the rubber with a welding blanket or steel sheet while you work. Sweep up swarf before walking across the rubber.

Make a paper or card template of the post or ramp first, then trace it onto the rubber. Cut with a sharp utility knife in several light passes rather than one deep one. For a post in the middle of a roll, cut a straight slit from the edge to the hole so the roll can slide around it.

Yes, interlocking rubber gym tiles work well in a workshop where you stand and drop tools, as they are thick and absorb impact. They are softer than a roll, so keep them away from areas where cars park or jacks are used. Edge strips finish the outer row so it does not catch a trolley wheel.